Chasing Waterfalls, Meeting Strangers, and an unforgettable Dinner

Chasing Waterfalls, Meeting Strangers, and an unforgettable Dinner

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Ralf Klüber
Apr 18, 2025 • 6 min read

We finally reached the travel mode we had always envisioned — and last night, it really hit me emotionally. But let me start at the beginning.

The past weeks were filled with incredible connections. We met so many kind and like-minded travelers and reconnected with several through social media. When you’re in sync with people who love the same type of travel and happen to roam the same regions, it often leads to a rich exchange of recommendations — especially for new places to visit. That’s how we ended up discovering Berat — a stunning Albanian town with a twist.

Berat’s castle isn’t just a relic of stone walls — it’s alive. People still live within its ancient fortifications in traditional houses lining narrow alleys that feel more like footpaths. As we often do, we wandered without a plan — no Google Maps, just curiosity. Twisting alleys, local smiles, and good food led the way.

That evening, we chatted with locals who pointed us toward the Osum Canyon — a must-see nearby. The next morning, we packed up and hit the road. The ride into the canyon was intense. Narrow roads, deep potholes, and oncoming trucks kept us on edge. After two hours of crawling at 30km/h, we decided it was time for a switch.

We parked the truck and prepped the motorcycle. As we were gearing up, two bikers pulled over — Uli from Duisburg and Hannes from Austria, both traveling through Albania and writing for a German motorbike magazine "Motorrad". Soon we were deep in conversation about bikes, travel, and life on the road. Uli, who had a drone with him, took some amazing shots of us and the truck for their article. Hannes, a motorcycle safety instructor who traveled 700.000 km with his bike already, shared some insights from his training sessions. A beautiful, spontaneous exchange.

We finally hit the road into the canyon on the bike, winding through the breathtaking landscape. Snow-capped peaks, turquoise water, massive rock faces — pictures couldn’t do it justice. Throughout the day, we kept running into Uli and Hannes at various viewpoints. What a lovely coincidence.

Back at the truck by 5 p.m., we decided to stay overnight right there. The twisted road back was just too much after such a full day. The spot was noisy near the main road, but only a few cars were expected during the night, so it felt calm enough. The full moon lit up the valley, and we slept deeply in that magical valley.

The next morning, we woke early and drove just two kilometers to an even tinier road to a parking spot — our gateway to a waterfall hike. We were the first ones there. After a quick muesli breakfast, we started our hike down into the valley. The silence was absolute. We didn’t meet a single soul for the first kilometers.

The waterfall was pristine. We soaked in the peace, then pushed further, climbing a narrow mountain trail. Our phone GPS failed us, but our Garmin watches saved the day. We found our path again and hiked over rivers and up ridges with stunning views. Three hours, 12 kilometers, and just two people crossed our path: a Greek couple and a lone goatherd. Pure magic.

Returning to the truck, the parking lot was full. Early starts pay off. We carefully made our way back to the main road, with Annika walking ahead to guide traffic. The road was incredibly tiny — we had barely 20 centimeters of space left and right. On one side, steep hills pressed in, and on the other, dramatic drops plunged into the valley. Only when we hit the main road again, did we notice a rusted sign forbidding vehicles over 3.5 tons from using that road. From the direction we entered this road, it had been invisible. Oops.

After two days full of nature, bikes, and hikes, we craved rest. We headed to Durrës — a town that's all but quiet — but we managed to find a peaceful campground with washing machines at our disposal, and finally tackled chores — with the next laundry day ahead of us. Full-time travel isn’t always about visiting fancy places or meeting new people. Often, it’s the everyday tasks like laundry, grocery shopping, or cleaning the house on wheels that take center stage.

That evening, we went in search of dinner. The nearby restaurant was closed, but Annika quickly found a local place on google maps. No website, no phone number — just vibes and good pictures. We took the bike again and rolled the dice. What we found was unforgettable. Authentic Albanian food, zero English, lots of Google Translate, and a table full of joy.

It overwhelmed me. I was really getting emotional — the entire week had been a dream. From stunning views and long motorbike rides to meeting wonderful people and hiking remote, narrow paths just the way we love it. Everything came together, and I felt deeply grateful.

This — this exact feeling — is what we dreamed of. It’s not always perfect. Sometimes it’s noisy, sometimes it rains, and chores always come. But after all these wonderful moments, the incredible food, and the joy of sharing it all with my favorite travel companion, it just felt right.

Lesson learned: Chase your dream. Let others question your path if they must — because they might not see the full picture, the sacrifices you make, or the fulfillment it brings. People will doubt what they don't understand, and that's okay. If a plan does not work out, you can always adjust as you go. Just don’t stop dreaming — and don’t stop living it your way.

Explore. Dream. Discover.