Morocco, Algeria, and an Invisible Line in the Sand

We’re always interested in the history of the places we visit. Traveling isn’t just about landscapes and food. It’s also about understanding the deeper currents that shape a country. When we drove through the Balkans, we took time to visit all sides of the former Yugoslav conflict, listening to people with opposing memories and pain.

We expected to do the same in Morocco. But here, as we got closer to the south, we quickly realized: no one talks about West Sahara.

It’s not just silence, it’s a loaded silence. The conflict turned 50 this month. Morocco celebrated the anniversary of the Green March with flags mounted on street lamps, buses, shops. It became a public holiday. Patriotism was everywhere.

Understanding the Conflict

The Green March, for context, was a strategic and symbolic operation organized by Morocco in 1975. Around 350,000 unarmed Moroccan civilians marched across the border into Western Sahara, waving flags, holding Qurans, and singing patriotic songs. Their goal was to peacefully assert Morocco’s claim over the territory after Spain, the colonial power, withdrew.

Spain’s withdrawal created a political vacuum. It had administered the region as a colony, but by the mid-70s, decolonization pressure led to its exit. Rather than granting independence to the native Sahrawi people, Spain signed a deal handing administrative control to both Morocco and Mauritania.

This division of the land ignored the aspirations of the local Sahrawi population. In response, the Polisario Front emerged. A nationalist liberation movement formed to fight for an independent Western Sahara. Backed by Algeria, the Polisario declared the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic and began resisting both Moroccan and Mauritanian control.

The Green March, though peaceful in appearance, resulted in real consequences for the Sahrawi people. Many were displaced and ended up in refugee camps in southwestern Algeria, where some still live today, decades later.

What followed was a complex, ongoing conflict. Morocco controls around 80% of the territory and sees it as part of the kingdom. Polisario controls the remaining area and continues to push for independence. The United Nations still considers West Sahara a non-self-governing territory. The region's value? Beyond symbolism, it has significant phosphate reserves, making this desert one of the world’s most contested patches of sand.

A Travelers Dilemma

As travelers, we don’t take sides in geopolitical debates. Our mission is to learn and understand. And that’s where things got personal.

When we entered Morocco four weeks ago, one truck in our convoy had a world map decal on both sides of the vehicle. A beautiful design, but one that showed borders, including a separation between Morocco and Western Sahara. This small detail caused a big problem.

Border officials denied our entry. Not just for that truck, the entire convoy was stopped. Three hours of tense discussions followed. Multiple levels of customs management got involved, examining the map in detail.

The solution? We took a part of the decal showing a large Indonesian island, cut it off both sides, and pasted the cut-out over the Western Sahara border. Only then we were allowed to proceed. Unless you look closely at the photos, you wouldn’t notice the creative fix. But if you zoom in, you’ll see our subtle cartographic hack. 

The experience taught us how real these abstract conflicts become when you're on the road. A simple map, whether it's a large decal on the side of your truck or a paper version you carry inside, can turn into a political statement.

So if you're planning to slap a world map on your truck, here's our advice: go for one without borders. Or maybe use rivers instead, they’re not politically charged and actually help with navigation.

Travel often teaches us more than history books ever could. Sometimes, all it takes is one border too many and a sticker island to show you the weight of a 50-year-old dispute.

The Visit of our Daughter

Last week was special because our daughter came to visit. After exploring the medina in Marrakesh, we headed west to the coastal town of Essaouira. It’s a much smaller and more relaxed place, with its own charming medina and less aggressive shopkeepers. We even took a swim in the Atlantic Ocean.

We stayed at a peaceful local campsite, spent a quiet day by the pool, played some mini golf, and enjoyed quality family time. It was a refreshing change of pace.

Later, we returned to the Agafay Desert for a bit of tourist fun: quad biking. This was our daughter's wish, and it turned into a real father-daughter moment. We had a private guide and spent two hours zipping through desert landscapes, snapping photos, and pausing for the obligatory mint tea in a small oasis. It was a blast.

As the week drew to a close, we made our way back to Marrakesh to drop Lena off at the airport. Then Annika and I started our journey north toward the port of Tanger Med to catch the ferry.

On our way, we explored Fes and made a stop in Chefchaouen, the famous blue city. Fes is one of Morocco’s four imperial cities and holds the status of being a royal city, rich in history and culture. It’s often considered the spiritual heart of Morocco, home to one of the world’s oldest universities and a bustling medina that feels like stepping back centuries in time. The royal palace gates and deep traditions reflect the importance of Fes in Moroccan identity.

Chefchaouen, on the other hand, is known for its stunning blue-painted streets and buildings. The origins of the blue hues are debated: some say it symbolizes the sky and heaven, others say it was introduced by Jewish refugees in the 1930s as a spiritual symbol. Either way, the result is a uniquely calming and photogenic town tucked into the Rif Mountains.

A fitting end to another memorable week on the road in Morocco.

Returning Home

Now, as we head toward the ferry and slowly make our way back to Europe, we can’t help but feel a growing sense of anticipation. We’re really looking forward to being home again. The thought of crisp, cold air and maybe even the first snow makes us smile. More than anything, we miss our friends and neighbors, the small familiar routines, and the warmth of community.

I am especially excited to return to my Toastmasters club and reconnect with people who’ve followed our journey from the beginning. There’s something comforting about returning to everything we call home. This fourth season of our travel has been an incredible learning experience , and the contrast of returning home is part of what makes traveling meaningful.

Explore. Dream. Discover.